Our Langtang/Gosainkund experiences had not yet quelled our enthusiasm for trekking (if anything they elevated it). So after a few days rest, we headed back out to do the Annapurna Sanctuary. While our previous treks had taken us through awesome, diverse terrain, they didn't have the 8000+ meter peaks that people come to the Himalaya to see; Annapurna was going to tick that box for us.

The route in our guidebook listed the trek as spanning 10 days but we condensed that down to 8 and then to 7 days when JB got a case of "Dehli Belly" the day we originally planned to leave. A huge upside to the Annapurna trek was that there was no 10 hour busride to prepare our nerves and backsides for; the start of the trek began just a 45 minute taxi ride away from Pokhara.

The first day was a very difficult one for several reasons. It was a very steep climb in what we were told was unseasonably warm weather. Furthermore, what had ailed JB a couple of days earlier had now made it presence known in me which made it a rather unpleasant walk to say the least! However, my stubborness refused to entertain the idea of turning around and we made it to Tolka, our overnight stop, albeit very slowly.Thanks to our good friend Ciprofloxacin, I felt much better the next day and could begin to enjoy the beauty that surrounded us.

Our breakfast view from Tolka:

The trail that day wound through many picturesque mountain villages.

This area of Nepal gets much more rain than most and was green and lush.

Our morning tea stop

Just one more rickety bridge...

We made it to day two's destination, Chommrong, just as big, fat raindrops began to fall.

We sat on our balcony as the rain pounded the tin roof and had one of our many Scrabble battles.

The "Excellent View guesthose" didn't let us down that night.

Nor the next morning; we ate breakfast gazing at a small portion of the Annapurna range (Annapurna South is the large mountain in frame)

The extremely photogenic mountain "Machapuchhare" (translation "fish-tail"mountain), which would be everpresent throughout our trek, but constantly changing.

Chommrong was the last village before things became a little more basic so we stocked up on the essentials (chocolate and toilet paper) before we left.

After descending down what must have been thousands of steps to the valley below Chommrong, we then frustratingly had to ascend them all again on the other side of the river. We stopped to catch our breath and rehydrate at a little tea shop in Sinuwa at the top of the ridge.

The next part of the trail was through forest which we welcomed as it provided some much needed shade from the harsh sun. We both regretted our last minute decision to leave our shorts behind as it was really quite hot for the majority of the trek.

The rhododendrons were setting parts of the mountain alight with their vibrant blooms.

After overnighting at Himalayan Hotel, we left early for Machapuchhare Base Camp which is where we planned to overnight next. This part of the trail crossed previously unencountered terrain.

The Annapurna Range is notorious for its avalanches and we were advised to enquire at many of the tea stops along the way for up to date information on the conditions of the trail. Fortunately, everyone assured us it was perfectly safe. Along the way, we crossed many avalanche chutes though and it was quite unnerving.

We made it to Machapuchhare Base Camp before lunch and we were rewarded with crisp blue skies yet again.

Our plan had been to take it easy in the afternoon and then set out really early the next day for sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp. However, since it was so clear and you can never be sure that it will stay that way, we decided to hike the two hours to ABC that afternoon to avoid the gamble. As we hiked higher, more of the mountains began to reveal themselves. 

Jb goofin around...

When we finally made it to ABC, the view was jaw dropping.

It's hard to capture in photographs but the ABC is at the heart of the natural amphitheatre that is created by the Annapurna massif. 

We climbed to a look out above the base camp to get a better view of the glacial valley below. It was here that I thought JB had a problem with his shoelace but you all know the real story by now. Moments after he popped the question... 

The ring:

We sat in this spot, encircled by enormous mountains on all sides, and watched the clouds roll in and listened to the low rumble of avalanches tumbling down the mountains off in the distance. It was surreal.

With the sun sinking behind the mountains, we made our way back down to MBC where we would spend the night. 

The next morning we decided to get up early and set off  back down the mountain to Chommrong.  We reached the base of Chommrong in the early afternoon just as dark grey rain clouds rolled over the mountains; this time we weren't so lucky. The lodge we wanted to stay at sat on the ridge at the top of the village. Tired and firmly focused on a hot shower, we hiked the long winding stair case through village farm plots as rain soaked our clothes. 

When we reached the lodge we showered and collapsed into bed. The next morning we decided to try to make it all the way back to Pokhara, a hike that would rival the distance and knee bashing we had endured the day before. Having retraced our steps to Chommrong, we chose an alternate route onwards that would take us through the medieval village of Gandruk. Along the way a friendly dog decided to join us and walked with us for about three hours. 

She followed us as far as Gandruk.

Gandruk was a maze of cobble stone alleys and old stone houses.

We really wished we had more time to explore this area, but with our visa about to expire we had no choice but to push on back to Pokhara